Shut off valve installation copper pipe

While the goal is to quickly and easily remove and replace the main water shutoff valve, it's important to prepare the area to make the process as streamlined as possible. Attach the jumper cables to the pipe on either side of the valve. The electrical system is commonly grounded through the main water line, so by attaching the jumper cables, you create a path for the electricity to flow in the case of a short in the system.

Otherwise, when you remove the old valve it's possible that you can become the conduit for this flow of electricity. Lay down a drop cloth and set up a bucket underneath the valve with a towel close at hand to wipe up any water that may miss the bucket.

Take out the flux paste, blow torch, grit cloth, pipe brush, new ball valve, pipe cutter, channel locks, fire extinguisher, soldering blanket, a roll of solder, gloves, and safety glasses. Arrange these supplies so that they are within reach and neatly organized. It's also a good idea to have a prepared compression valve nearby in case of an emergency.

This emergency valve can be quickly installed if the curb stop valve fails after cutting the pipe. With the area prepared, it's time to shut down the water. Speak to the public works official to turn the water off or operate the curb key on your own, if you have permission and the experience. Once the curb stop valve is closed, head inside and test the water by turning on a faucet.

The water should come out regularly, at first, then begin to taper off until it stops completely, indicating that the curb stop valve works and is fully closed. If the water doesn't stop, then the curb stop valve may not be completely closed or it may be broken.

Discuss possible options with the public works official to have the curb stop valve repaired before proceeding. Head to the sink that is closest to the main water shutoff valve and open the faucet to drain the water line. As noted above, the water should initially come out at a normal rate, then taper off before stopping entirely. Keep in mind that some homes have an isolation valve located just a few feet away from the main water shutoff valve. By turning off this isolation valve, you don't need to drain the entire water line.

Though some water will still come out of the pipe when the old valve is removed, the amount should be significantly reduced. Double-check that the jumper cables, drop cloth, bucket, and towel are all in place, then use the pipe cutter to start cutting through the pipe on the outlet side of the valve.

Expect some water to come out and fall into the bucket. The flow of water should stop after a few minutes, indicating that the water line is completely drained. Finish cutting the pipe, then move to the inlet side and repeat the process. This time there should be little to no water coming from the pipe while it's being cut.

Alternatively, the valve can be 'sweated' off by applying constant heat with the blowtorch in order to melt the old solder joints, allowing the valve to be removed with a set of channel locks, though this method is only recommended for individuals with soldering experience.

Take the towel and clean the pipe to remove any dust or debris, then use the grit cloth to scrape off the top layer of oxidized metal material, revealing clean copper pipe.

Apply flux paste to the exterior of the pipe to prepare it for soldering. You will also want to use a wire pipe brush to clean the inside of the new valve, then apply flux paste to the inside of the valve.

This paste helps to remove contaminants between the two surfaces and draw in the solder as it's heated up. Slide the valve over the copper pipe, ensuring that the bleeder valve the small cap located on the side of the ball valve is positioned toward the house side. With the valve open and facing the correct direction, it's time for the blow torch.

Place a soldering blanket behind the pipe to block the flame from the blow torch, protecting the wall, insulation, and any surrounding items from fire damage. Attach a canister of MAPP gas to the blow torch. Going to try replacing them after watching your very helpful video. I have changed a couple of valves in the distant past but the old way.

I would love to have thses tools for my next project, though it will likely take me a little more than 9 minutes. Thanks, Bob. I can use a few of these. Good info at the right time. I need to move my washing machine in the laundry room to make it more efficient for the wife. Found out only shut off on water in house is at the well pump entry to the house. All other faucets and bath have none. Real bother when I might have a problem. Kit would really help in moving wash machine now that your tutorial has shown me how to do it.

I can then install other places too in the house as needed. Thanks for these good DIY articles. As you said, this is a super easy way to replace a shut off valve. I love how you break it down for us. Many thanks and hope I am the random recipient of the kit. Getting ready to do a bathroom remodel, followed by adding an additional half bath in the basement.

This kit will be a great help. Thank you for your videos. I just purchased my first rental and have some projects to tackle. Hiring a handyman or contractor is a night mare. I have to replace the shut off valve in the front of the house because the knob is missing. I am hoping it will be as easy as yours. What does deburring mean? Thanks again. Great video, love the shark bite products, could use the kit for the toolbox.

Have a rental unit and repair business too. Getting ready to add a wet bar to basement and will need these for sure. Thanks for the chance to win them. There are some gate valves on the galvanized pipe that are turning blue. I fear just touching them will cause them to leak for a while until crusted over with time again? Is brass gates to galvanized even ok or will that cause electrolysis reaction? Will have to use local turn-offs like you show, Jeff. Then what to do with the old valves? If you have an older home with galvanized pipes, I suggest hiring a plumber to do the switchout.

Unscrewing the old valve and screwing on a new one may seem easy enough. I am also installing SharkBites instead of trying to sweat copper pipes. If you are replacing only a hot-side shut-off valve, then you could shut off the hot water at the water heater. It is considered good practice to replace both shut-off valves to a faucet at the same time. If one valve has gone bad, it's likely the other one will soon follow.

There will be some residual water in the pipe, so it is a good idea to have a small bowl, sponge, or towels handy when removing a fixture shut-off valve. Disconnect the mounting nut that holds the flexible supply tube to the outlet nipple on the shut-off valve and remove the tube from the valve. Disconnect the compression nut that fits around the water supply pipe by gripping the valve with one pair of channel-lock pliers and turning the compression nut with another pair of pliers.

Slide the valve body off the end of the water pipe, then slide the brass compression ring and compression nut off the pipe. While the compression nut and ring could be reused with the new valve, it is better practice to remove these and install the new ones included with the new valve. Because the compression sleeve has been squeezed against the pipe and, ideally, even changed the size of the pipe, it can be near-impossible to remove.

If the compression valve was installed properly, the sleeve should not come off. If the sleeve does not come off with pliers, use a tubing cutter to cut back the copper and install the new compression valve on a new section of pipe.

This specialty tool is infrequently used but can be used to attempt to remove compression sleeves. With the old valve, sleeve, and compression nut removed, clean off the pipe with a rag. Slide the new compression nut onto the pipe, followed by the compression sleeve. Slide these pieces well down the pipe to make room for the valve.

Next, slide the valve onto the water pipe, making sure the pipe is fully seated into the valve's socket. Slide the compression ring and nut up against the bottom of the valve and thread the compression nut onto the valve body. Install Shut Off Valve Copper Pipe copper pipe A pipe is a tubular section or hollow cylinder, usually but not necessarily of circular cross-section, used mainly to convey substances which can flow--liquids and gases fluids , slurries, powders, masses of small solids.

Rigid form hard pipe made of copper and sold in different lengths. Used to carry water to fixtures and appliances. Use Type M for most residential work.