Saniloo manual

We ourselves have repaired a Saniflo which was around 20 years old, so they can last a long time if used properly. Saniflo descaler read more. If you found are information useful please bookmark our website or share it with others or leave a review here.

The microswitch controls the on off of the pump, the membrane covers the plastic paddle which pushes the microswitch on and off when water enters the pump, if the membrane is distorted in anyway or has shrunk or gone stiff over time with scale this will affect start stop of the pump.

Top Tip: After fitting parts set your saniflo up in the garden using an RCD adapter on the power cord for safety, fill the machine with water to see if the machine pumps out and switches off, point the waste outlet of the Saniflo in to a drain or a large bucket.

This will save lots of labour time if you have not fitted parts correctly, adjustments can easily be made whilst the machine is not plumbed in at it original location. The answer is no, heavy and continuous over use of bleach or other toilet cleaners can shrink and harden the Saniflo rubber membran e which covers the pressure switch.

When the rubber membrane shrinks it stops the pressure switch from turning off properly. The symptoms would be that the macerator pump runs on for too long after use, is very sensitive meaning if you have a wooden floor just walking past the Saniflo would set it off, or the machine should stay on for what seems like forever until it eventually switches of itself as it overheats when the thermal cut out kicks in and switches the machine off.

This is not good overall for the macerator. Saniflo Descaler has been specially formulated to clean and descale a Saniflo macerator and it does the job well.

There are a few reasons for this, a running tap, a blockage in the Saniflo, a blockage in the Saniflo waste pipe leading outside, the saniflo membrane is damaged, the Saniflo microswitch is stuck on or the pump blade has detached from the motor this would be accompanied by a whirring noise. A Saniflo cannot chop these items up and throw the motor off balance when it is running, you will need to remove these objects immediately to avoid damaging the motor.

There are a few reasons for this type of problem, you could have a faulty Saniflo microswitch , a faulty Saniflo membrane or water is getting in to the Saniflo from a dripping tap, overflowing toilet, a condensing boiler may be connected to it.

Normally this is bad news, the reason for this type of problem is a worn or faulty motor as water is getting in to the electrics and fusing the circuit. Sometimes but in rare cases you may have loose wiring where the Saniflo is connected but is very rare its normally a dead Saniflo, you will have to buy a new unit as the motor is unrepairable.

Plan B, put a plug on the macerator and plug it in to a different circuit using and RCD Adapter for safety and see if the machine works, if not it is most likely time for a new macerator pump. If your Saniflo is leaking from the air vent on the top when running could be caused by a dirty Saniflo, it will need to be removed and cleaned out by hand as there will be too much waste inside, the switch or the Saniflo membrane is defective and the machine is not turning on quick enough to pump out the water or the motor is on its way out and cannot turn fast enough to pump out the water this will be accompanied by a knocking noise.

Another problem for air vent leaks is the rubber waste outlet which is attached to the lid and inserts in to the pump outlet has shrunk due to excessive toilet cleaner use. As the Saniflo is running water sprays out of the side and dribbles out of the air vent. If your Saniflo is clean inside and water is spraying out of the air vent the rubber insert needs to be replaced. First thing you should try is make sure the Saniflo is switched on and has power going to it.

Your Saniflo motor could be jammed and unable to pump out, this will be accompanied by a humming or buzzing noise and the box will be quite hot and the motor will need to be freed up. Another reason is for this problem the Saniflo membran e or Saniflo microswitch is defective and is not allowing the motor to turn on or worst case scenario the motor is not working at all and you will have to buy a new Saniflo other problems can be blocked traps or waste pipes.

If your Saniflo is foaming out of the air vent or inside the toilet bowl it is because the Saniflo either has too much toilet cleaner inside the machine, bleach, or bubble bath if connected to a bath or shower.

If foam is coaming out of the machine it will not pump out the water properly and will pump constantly and will eventually overheat and cut out if left on for too long. You must try and dilute the water or switch it on for short bursts until all the foam has gone. Never use excessive amounts of cleaners, bleach, bubble bath or leave bleach blocks in the cistern. If your Saniflo is running on or not pumping out and the temperature outside is below Zero it is most likely the Saniflo waste outlet pipe has frozen solid or your Saniflo is located in and outside building which is not insulated and the machine itself has frozen.

Turn the machine off to avoid burning it out. All external waste pipes must be lagged with foam insulation and machine must be protected against frost, the Saniflo installation booklet will tell you this. If it is not possible to lag the pipes or machine due to access or pipework fitted at height you will have to wait until the temperature goes above freezing before using the machine, possibly around midday.

Jabsco Quiet Flush Electric Head includes a water control solenoid valve with anti-siphon braker to prevent contamination of potable water supply. A lot of people scoff at electric heads as extravagant energy wasters. But because the electric pumps run so briefly with each flush, the total current consumption is actually quite low. The Jabsco Quiet—Flush Electric Head, for example, draws 10A, but with a second flush cycle, total energy used per flush is just 0.

Advantages of electric heads include easier operation for inexperienced guests, and less chance of clogging because the built—in macerator evacuation pumps grind up waste and toilet paper before sending it to the holding tank. Bronze fittings are most common because of their strength and durability, followed by Marelon fittings for their nonconductive, noncorroding nature. For these reasons Marelon fittings are often used on metal boats.

All types of sanitation hose will eventually smell if sewage is allowed to stand for extended periods of time. We recommend only smooth interior wall hose because corrugated types trap waste and restrict flow. Rigid PVC does not pass odors but is more difficult to route and does not connect directly to pumps and thru-hulls. Still, it's possible to plumb part of the system with rigid PVC, switching to hose where necessary.

All of these hoses are resistant to odor permeation. To reduce the chance of sanitation hoses emitting a foul odor, be sure to flush the system after every use. Hoses should be installed without any low spots where waste can collect. Heating hose to fit over barbed adapters can dangerously weaken the hose. Using your limited supply of fresh water to flush the head seems like a ridiculous waste, but electric heads from Jabsco and SeaLand use very little water—some models as little as a pint or two.

And freshwater flushes greatly reduce bad odors in the system caused by all sorts of microorganisms dying and decaying in the bowl—plankton, krill, you'd be surprised! Below-waterline installation requires vented loops to prevent back-siphoning and potential sinking when the boat heels. A common cause of boat sinkings is from backflow created by siphons in the head and engine seawater intake hoses, and head discharge hose.

Vented loops installed in the hose above the waterline prevent siphons from occurring and don't impede normal flow. They're usually mounted against a bulkhead. We sell both bronze and Marelon models. They are light, won't corrode and are much less expensive than metal or fiberglass tanks. While thinner wall tanks rarely burst, they can bulge so much that fittings are stressed to the point of leaking.

Your nose will alert you, but it's safer to buy a quality tank in the first place. We sell Todd and SeaLand tanks in various wall thickness. Taller, narrower tanks can be emptied more completely but are more difficult to secure. Plumbing attachments should be as low and as high on the tank as possible. Flexible tanks can be used when spaces are oddly shaped or inaccessible but they lack the odor resistance and strength of rigid tanks so we don't recommend them for waste.

We feel the best Y— or diverter valve is made by Whale, in part because it has a center position that closes both ports. Other brands, however, may integrate into your plumbing more conveniently depending on the direction your hose runs.

The Bosworth Y—valve can be surface—mounted so that you don't have to climb into a tiny locker to change directions. Forespar's Marelon valves are very strong, and Jabsco valves can be adjusted to a variety of configurations and are lockable for USCG inspections. Discharge pumps are used to empty the holding tank overboard. Get Rewarded. STAY Freedom to fully unwind and experience true luxury. Million Dollar Moment. Win Free Play Prizes Win a Chevy Corvette Thursdays are made for winning BIG, and we are continuing that tradition in with your weekly shot at winning thousands in cash or a brand-new car!

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